Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
